Kodak Pulse Wi-Fi Photo Frame

February 4th, 2012 1 Comment »

My parents live quite a distance away, my sister and her family live a little closer to them but still a good hour away too. In light of this and to ensure that the photos on it are regularly updated, instead of just buying them a normal digital photo frame for Christmas, we decided that an Internet connected device would be better – that way we could send new photos straight to the frame as soon as we had taken them. A quick scout around the web turned up the Kodak Pulse range of devices.
Available in a 7″ or 10″ screen size, of course you go for the largest!
The Kodak Pulse connects to your wireless network easily – setting it up is straight-forward using the built in touch-screen menus, and once connected it talks you through registering the device online. Each device has a unique code printed on the box, although when I set up the frame it gave me an on-screen unique code completely different to the one printed on the box… so the box code was never used. This unique code links your frame to the Kodak servers and your Kodak account.
Within your Kodak account you can assign a special @kodakpulse.com email address – this then becomes the primary way for remote users to send photos to the frame. When a photo is emailed as an attachment to your kodakpulse.com email address, within 15 minutes a little mail icon appears in the top-right corner of the frame’s screen. Touch the icon and you can review the new photos, and approve or discard them according to your wants.

Of course, the frame supports many other ways of transferring photos including the traditional “bung in a memory card of photos” method, but being Wi-Fi enabled you can also log in to the Kodak Pulse web site to manage the frame’s contents, upload photos from your PC’s collection, group them, enable/disable groups of photos, adjust the frame’s transition settings or power management, or any other setting which you feel needs a tweak. The interface is pretty well thought out and requires very little actual device interaction – the frame will just sit there happily accepting remote commands and images.

One of the neatest features of the photo frame is the Facebook integration. You can link the frame to a Facebook account, and then choose which albums on Facebook you would like to be displayed on the frame. You can choose to display specific albums, all albums, or just recent images from your feed. In my case, I chose to link the Kodak frame to my mum’s Facebook account and display two specific albums – one managed by me, the other managed by my sister with both albums set to limit permissions down to just the three of us. The frame happily cycles around the images, displaying new ones as we amend the albums online. My one criticism of this integration is due to the low quality of the images – they appear highly compressed compared to images which are directly uploaded or emailed. This is a shame as it is one of the most convenient ways to manage photos on the frame.

For the power conscious among you, you’ll be pleased to hear that the frame has a built in motion sensor to power the screen on or off depending on whether is senses people are around. I can’t honestly say whether or not this is working because it’s always on when I’m around…
it might be turning off when there’s no-one there but who knows. We might have to set up a camera to watch it when we’re not around just to prove a point!

To summarise, this is an excellent photo frame and I am really tempted to buy one for my use too – the Wi-Fi connectivity and remote management has been implemented excellently so even the most amateur of consumers should be able to set this up.


Canon Pixma MG6250 Multi-Function Printer

January 28th, 2012 2 Comments »

My poor old Canon Pixma ip3000 printer, it’s a couple of years older than my daughter (who is 5) and has been through a lot. Sadly, it is well past its best, the print-head needs replacing because it prints in stripes, and it’s not reliably connecting to my computer any more. I’m upset to part with it, mainly because it takes four cartridges which can be purchased for as little as 65p and I still have a stash of them. In its prime, it was fantastic – photos quality images at a very low cost, as well as CD/DVD printing and a duplex unit built in. Time to go, though, and it’s because of my happy experience with the ip3000 that I have replaced it with another Canon Pixma, the MG6250. Now, strictly speaking this isn’t just a printer. It’s a multi-functional device, which basically means it’s a printer AND a scanner. My old scanner, also a Canon, isn’t longer compatible with Windows 7 and I had to resort to hacked drivers to get it even sort of working. This new printer will replace that device too.

Now, I’m a regular reader of PC Pro magazine, and the Canon range of printers has been topping their A-list for years – each successive model knocking the previous Canon model off the list. This applies for both the inkjet printer and multi-function categories, so I knew that when the MG6250 came out it would also do well (and indeed, in the January 2012 edition they reviewed it fully). My first impression of the device as I took it out of the box was “wow, this is big”. Thinking about it sensibly though, of course it’ll be bigger than the old one – it has a scanner built in to it too. It is taller than my old printer, very slightly wider (which means it only just fits on the table), and deeper too. Now, deeper isn’t a problem at all really because it means that the paper tray, right at the bottom, runs the full depth of the printer instead of sticking out of the front by 4 inches like on the ip3000. Although I push the printer right up against the wall behind it, I will have to pull it forward to use the manual paper feeder because this requires extra space once extended.

You may have noticed the fold-up colour screen on the top of the printer, well this is a necessity because this printer, although it can just connect directly to your PC via USB, is actually designed to connect to your home network instead. The printer supports standard 802.11bg wireless and also has what I consider to be even more important, a standard Ethernet port for hard-wiring it to your network. If you go down the network cable route, installation is very simple – plug in the cable! The first time you power it on, it runs through a self-setup procedure. It asks you to install the SIX ink cartridges one by one, with simple illustrated instructions shown on the screen. The cartridges light up with a red LED when installed correctly which is a helpful and space-age touch. Then, it does some unknown configuration inside itself for about 5 minutes, after which is politely tells you it is ready to go.

Everything is controlled from the touch panel next to the LCD screen. The display itself is not touch-screen, but instead the surface of the top of the printer contains touchable buttons which light up when enabled. It takes a bit of getting used to as they are very sensitive, but it is actually preferable to getting sticky fingers over the display. If you wish to use the wired network connection, visit settings and choose the LAN options – choosing the wired LAN option instantly enables your printer to work on the wired network. If you wish to use it on a wireless network, visit the LAN options and configure the wireless network that way. The printer supports various easy configurations, but I tested it with a standard WPA2 802.11g network and it was very easy to do. My one criticism it the input method for typing in data. The display shows either all lower-case, all upper-case, or characters and numbers. If your SSID or WPA key includes a mixture of lower-case, upper-case and symbols then you’ll be switching between the keypads frustratingly often. Fortunately you don’t need to do this often though! Now, if you are running Windows 7, all you need to do to install the printer is open Windows Explorer and take a look under ‘Network’ on the left-hand side. You should see a section labelled Multifunction Devices under which is a device. Simply double-clicking on this device automatically installed both the printer and scanner driver. Job done. In operation, I didn’t notice any difference between using it wired or wireless, I just prefer the wired option to keep my airwaves free for laptops, and as I have plenty of spare wired network capacity within easy reach of the printer there was very little point in using wireless.

If you are a bit more technically inclined, you’ll find the printer has its own configuration web page on which you can change the display name of the printer amongst other things. Right, now on to the good bits: how does the printer perform in operation?

The printer uses six ink cartridges: the standard cyan, magenta and yellow; a pigmented black for text documents; a standard black for photographs; and a grey for improved grayscale printing. I think the grey ink may be a gimmick, but I’m no expert! Filling it up with original ink costs around £50, however cheapo ink will cost about £20 so I’ll let you know about that in a future post. Sending a standard text document works the same as with any other printer – just print it.

 The front panel will fold down on its own, and providing there’s paper in the tray your print will appear. If you send a larger text document you can choose to print multiple pages per sheet, and also print on both side. The printer will automatically duplex for you so there’s no re-feeding the paper just to print on the other side.

As for photo printing, the printer was supplied with a few sheets of 4×6 glossy photo cards as a sampler. If you feed these in the manual feeder at the top, the printer auto-detects the paper size. Using Canon’s supplied Easy-PhotoPrint EX software, you can very quickly choose a photo to print, select the type of paper to print it to, and adjust it if necessary. It takes a couple of minutes to send the large amount of data across the network, but once it reaches the printer it spits it out in no time at all. Quality is very good and as good if not better than that produced by the machines in supermarkets. The printer includes a CD/DVD/Blu-Ray printing tray and the same software will talk you through that process too.

 

Okay, so on to the scanner… You can scan from the PC using Window’s built in “Windows Fax and Scan” software, but truth be told I found the easiest way to scan was to stick a memory card in to one of the printer’s card slots and use the printer’s control panel to scan.

The interface for performing a scan is excellent – you choose the scan option from the first menu, choose a scan type (document, photo, etc), then you choose scanning options such as media size (A4, 6×4, automatic, etc) or resolution. Then you choose where to save it which can include PCs (if directly connected) or a USB or memory card.

Once scanned, you can access your images over the network because the printer shares your memory cards as if they were network drives. Sadly it is read-only, so you’ll need to take the memory card out to erase the images eventually. I’ve left an old 2GB SD card in my printer and my only issue with doing this is that the blue LED to tell you there’s a card installed is distractingly bright.

As a demonstration I decided to print a 6×4 photo, then rescan it. I can’t of course show you the quality of the printed image, but I can show you the original file. The printout was very close to the original image as displayed on my monitor at least. I then scanned the photo in order to test the performance of the scanner. Comparing these images side by side gives you a good indication as to how the device performs as a whole.

You can see the original image on the top, and the scanned image underneath – I have re-sized both images the same and introduced the same JPG compression too. The colour loss happened in the re-scan and not in the printing and can easily be edited back to normal. Where the scanner does fall down is in focus and definition. You can clearly see a loss of clarity meaning that this scanner is perfectly good for most people, but will never match the quality of a higher end dedicated scanner. Ideal for me and my occasional use though.

This has now become the longest blog post ever, so in the interest of completeness I may as well carry on. The printer will connect to a couple of online services. One of these is Canon’s own photo gateway which is exclusive to Canon camera owners. I don’t have a Canon camera therefore couldn’t use this service! The other is Google’s Picasa. Now this is a service I could test. Connecting to my Picasa account was simple, if a little frustrating because of the aforementioned keyboard issues. Once signed up, visiting the Advanced Photo Print menu allowed to me connect to the Picasa web service. The printer displays your available photos on the screen and a simple tap of the COLOR print button spits out 6×4 print. It’s clever, but I can’t see me using it. My photos are either on Facebook, or local on my server.

I’d better summarise this then because my fingers are starting to hurt. Overall this is an excellent printer. It has many features and for the price is one of the best value. As for reliability I cannot comment yet, but I’m hoping it follows the track record of its predecessors and reputation.

Wilkinson Sword Hydro 5

January 21st, 2012 1 Comment »

It started with a text message from a friend: “Free Wilkinson razor with men’s health. Gillette fusion suck … in comparison”. Well, after my glowing review of the Gillette Fusion ProGlide, I had to accept the challenge so off I popped to the shop to purchase my copy of Men’s Health. Sure enough, it came with a free Wilkinson Sword Hydro 5 razor which I believe is Wilkinson Sword’s answer to the superb Gillette Fusion ProGlide. They both have 5 blades, and they both cost a fortune to run! In the interest of fairness though, I used the Hydro 5 for a few days to come up with my conclusion: I won’t be switching from Gillette – sorry WS! The Hydro 5 is much cheaper to run that the ProGlide – rough costs are £16 for 8 blades, compared with a similar price for 6 with the ProGlide. The Hydro 5 gives almost as good results as the ProGlide, but I’d personally say they are closer to the results from the old reliable Gillette Mach 3. Where the Hydro 5 falls down though is in operation – there are several points I need to raise:

  • The head itself is spring loaded which is useful and the same as the ProGlide, however it doesn’t exert enough pressure and when dragging it across my face, the blade frequently fold away. I think this is due to there being too much friction at the foot of the blade.
  • The blade includes a special “Advanced Hydrating Gel Reservoir” which if you look at the photos is the line of small white dots at the head of the blade. This makes the blade quite bulky, and very difficult to get a close shave under my (large) nose. I liken this problem to the one touted by numerous vacuum cleaner manufacturers – gets right to the edge, and it doesn’t.
  • Clogging! When Gillette introduced 5 blades per blade (??? you know what I mean) I was concerned about it clogging quickly. The ProGlide doesn’t clog easily, but the Hydro 5 does. Now I have no idea as to which scientifically magic effect is causing this difference but the spacing between the blades on each razor might be causing this. The blades on the Hydro 5 are larger and spaced apart a lot more than the more compact looking ProGlide.

I’ve moaned about the chunky blade head, and one reason for this is that you can flip open back of the ‘hydrating gel reservoirs’ in order to get a shave closer to the edge – neat touch! A side effect of this is that the head is also locked in place allowing you to exert more pressure which also addresses another one of my complaints. Anyway, if you’re quick you can get yourself a free Hydro 5 with Men’s Health magazine (January 2012 edition), or just buy one online to test it out. Personally, if you’re going for a new razor, go for the ProGlide and swallow the extra running costs in your pride.

Buffalo LinkStation Duo

December 17th, 2011 2 Comments »

Sadly this isn’t my new toy: it belongs to the Father-in-law whose aging Freecom NAS was no longer up to the job. The brief was reasonably simple on the surface of things, to be able to store a large music collection and enabling that collection to be streamed to a wireless music player, whilst also being accessible from a laptop both online and offline. Well, seeing the LinkStation Duo 2TB available for a comparatively low price on Amazon I suggested he go for it. Why the Pro Duo version and not the standard Live? Mainly because the 2TB Duo NAS consists of two 1TB drives and lets you run them mirrored (RAID1) for resiliency. If one drive were to fail, your data is safe and sound on the other one – all you need to do is buy a new 1TB drive and swap it over with the faulty one. The NAS should then rebuild the array and resiliency is once again restored. It’s a simple but effective concept which I have relied on for many years and protects you against the failure of a single hard drive at any one time. It doesn’t of course replace the need for regular backups off-site somewhere which will be the subject of a future blog I’m sure.

Buffalo_LS_Duo_350After plugging the NAS in, ignoring the supplied CD, I went straight to the web interface. Setting the hostname and giving it a static IP address was simple enough, but a word of advice to anyone deciding to run the automatic firmware update process: don’t. The upgrade was about 250MB, with no progress bar whilst the download or install took place. I’d suggest you browse to the Buffalo Tech web site and download the firmware manually that way first, then apply it to the NAS afterwards. Once I had updated it, I proceeded to the RAID configuration. This could be simpler in my opinion, but I figured out how to remove the default RAID0 (striped) partition, and then create a new mirrored one afterwards.

Linkstation Pro Duo - Web Sys InfoCreating folders is the easiest task of all to complete and I won’t discuss that here, and creating new user accounts to protect those folders is also pretty simple. Keep in mind that by default a user is given read-only access to each folder and you’ll have to make sure you select read-write in the appropriate drop-down list if that is what’s needed. Another general tip for NAS users is to make sure you create user accounts exactly in-line with the user accounts you log on to Windows with. If you click on an icon labelled ‘Bob’ and then type in a password to get in to Windows, make sure you create a user account called ‘Bob’ (note the capital) with the same password to enable seamless access.

The NAS supports Windows offline folders, which is handy for laptop users, and also boasts DLNA capabilities (works okay if a little un-customisable) and acts as an iTunes server (I didn’t test this one). More interestingly though is the bittorrent server built in to the firmware – this is becoming a standard feature of many NASs lately and allows you to download, from a legitimate source of course, peer-to-peer hosted files without leaving a computer on. Just think of all those Linkstation Pro Duo - No CoverUbuntu source disks you can easily acquire in that manner. An even more useful feature, which I’d often thought was daft not to include on all NASs, is a web server and database server! Your NAS is running a web server anyway, so why not allow you to upload your own custom files in a virtual folder on that web server? I couldn’t suggest using the NAS as a production web server, but for test and development it should be ideal.

Physically, the NAS is not one of the smallest around, but then again it does pack in two standard 3.5" drives and a hefty processor by comparison. It’s a sleek black unit with three bright LEDs on the front and in operation it is remarkably quiet. I’ve been advised that it can make quite a noise on occasions which I have tracked down to being drive re-synchronisation – basically, don’t power the NAS off unless you’ve done a graceful shutdown by sliding the off switch at the rear of the unit and waited for the lights to go out. If you need to replace a hard drive, you just pop the front cover off and slide one out – simples.

Netgear DGN1000 ADSL Router

December 10th, 2011 No Comments »

When your broadband connection goes down you feel completely helpless don’t you? Or is that just me? Well, my ADSL router died a few weeks ago and I needed to get it back up and running as soon as possible. I found an old Siemens router in the garage from when I used Tiscali so I reconfigured this, plugged it in and all was well. For a week or two. Then that router died too with an almost identical fault – power light would come on, but it would never boot. Grrr, I had a few choices – order a new one online (er, how?) or go to an actual shop thing and buy one. My local PC World / Currys / Comet / Tesco turned out to be less than useful unless I had over £70 to burn and keeping in mind that BT Infinity will be rearing its head within the next couple of months I was reluctant to spend much given that I’ll need new hardware anyway when I sign up to that. Thankfully Argos rescued me, and the Netgear DGN1000 was purchased.

The router is shiny and black with wall mountable screw holes on the back which is always a nice touch… if it was going to be a permanent installation I’d have used these but in the interest of keeping my walls clean I have propped it precariously in the corner of my lounge instead so as my 2-year-old son can ‘test’ it fully. Installation of the router was very straight forward – I’ve used a lot of Netgear ADSL routers over the years, mainly the DG834G varieties and the interface in the DGN1000 is more or less the same. The router automatically detected the line parameters and prompted me for my credentials which were duly supplied… and there we are, all connected! Of course I had to make a number of changes to default configuration to align it with my existing network infrastructure: the LAN addressing had to be changed to 192.168.1.0/24 from 192.168.0.0/24 and of course this means re-addressing the router to 192.168.1.1 – a very easy task; the DHCP scope needed to be adjusted in a similar manner, and limited to fewer addresses which prevents overlap with the statics on my LAN; and a few inbound traffic rules needed to be added forwarding to my server for remote access. All this was easy to do and quite intuitive, but the most important thing was the Wi-Fi configuration. Now, I don’t make use of Wi-Fi on my router because I have a dedicated access point elsewhere in the house, so I usually disable it straight away. This time I decided to test it out specifically for this review. Netgear, quite stupidly in my opinion, enable Wi-Fi on their routers out of the box. Not only do they enable them, but they give them a standard SSID of NETGEAR and turn off all encryption leaving the router completely open. The DGN1000 includes Wireless-N support across a single radio meaning it can theoretically support up to 150Mbps. More expensive models sport double antennae meaning they can go up to 300Mbps if you need that kind of bandwidth. After locking down the configuration to WPA2-AES I gave the wireless connection a good hammering. Compared to my existing 802.11g network which normally connected at around 40Mbps, the 802.11n access point gave me connection speeds of 64Mbps. Of course in real life this doesn’t necessarily mean anything, but transfer speeds to my server generally felt a little nippier by comparison although I didn’t bother with anything scientific. If I ever get hold of a 300Mbps access point then I’ll do some proper playing for you.

Netgear DGN1000I do have a couple of beefs with the router. Firstly, connection speeds are a little lower than my late Huawai router, syncing at around 3.8Mbps instead of the previous 4.5Mbps but I’m not noticing the difference really – I’m getting enough to stream BBC iPlayer in high quality. My second beef concerns the manner in which it deals with internal requests to services which are hosted internally to the LAN, but using an Internet facing DNS name / IP address. Not following me? Well, my Windows Home Server sits on my LAN, and if I wish to connect to the server when I’m out and about on someone else’s Internet connection, I simply open a web browser, type in the special secret URL associated with my server, and the web browser goes away and hits my router at home, which port forwards me through on TCP 80 to my server inside my LAN. All fine and dandy, but what if I’m sitting at home on my LAN and I do the same thing – you’d think that the router should be able to understand that it is actually supposed to port forward you to a specific host on your LAN, but what it actually does is ignore its ruleset and connect you straight to the internal web interface of the router. I haven’t had this issue since I first made use of a Netgear DG834G v1 many years ago and even then the problem was resolved after a few months via a firmware update. Why Netgear have allowed this problem to creep back in I’m not sure but I’ll update this review if it gets fixed.